Skincare Life Lessons for Acne

Hey guys, I know I've been very absent, but I was going through a bout of skin depression so I decided to just abstain. I don't know how many people have gone through a phase where they were so ashamed of their skin that it hindered their social life, but it's a phase that I've gone through and am trying to snap out of. I firmly believe that social life and development of any person completely trumps skin woes but trying to find the confidence to get past it is hard. One thought that gets me through is that nobody really notices because let's face it, if you have bad skin, you've probably had bad skin for a while and people are used to it by now. Besides, people are talking to you and your brain, not your skin. Also, 95% of people (family excluded of course, we all know what those loving comments are like) of the minute percentage who notice will be too polite to mention it. And we all know ignorance is bliss, no?

Anyway, moving past the psych to the physical. These pointers are what has personally helped me get rid of 90% of my active acne and I really really wish I had known all these 8 years ago when my acne bloomed. So no matter if you're a pre-pubescent hormonal teen, or 25 and struggling with adult acne, just hear me out because it can't hurt, can it?

1. Face the reality of YOUR type of skin. Stop reading and believing everything those beautiful bloggers with gorgeous skin write about, look for a reliable community of people in a similar situation to consult with instead
I admit, I am a die hard blogger fan. After all, I'm trying to write one myself. But face reality with me and see that bloggers are special people who have very hardy skin. Not everyone can try out so many products and barely have adverse reactions. You and I, with the acne face, are not one of this special group. To still get the products!favourites!routine! fix, look for communities such as r/skincareaddiction or r/asianbeauty which are full of great advice actually backed by science, not just anecdotal advise partially influenced by sponsorships. It's wonderful to know you're not the only one out there and when people post before and afters, it just puts so much hope back into the world.


2. Stop buying into bullshit product claims (pending patent xxx ingredient!) and learn to read and understand ingredient labels
How many times have you been suckered into a product just because it claims to "get rid of acne in just 10 days!" simply because you were desperate looking for the next "the one magical unicorn product"?

Learning to read ingredient lists is one of the best things I did because I could actually be somewhat able to find out whether the claims can be fulfilled and which ingredients were actually good. For example,  if a product that claims to whiten, brighten with vitamin c (listed as ascorbic acid, or xx ascorbyl if it's a more stable derivative) has it listed as the first item in the ingredients list, then it's a winner. If it's way down, put that product back down! I always try to buy products with the "active" ingredients high up in the ingredient list rather than having just plain ol' water and alcohol denat. making up the bulk of the product.


3. Know your sensitivities to ingredients
It's hard to know what products you're sensitive to when you have faceful of bumps. After all, if new bumps appear, they just blend into the many.

I only recommend the following routine because I don't have the balls to go entirely without products. This routine encourages proper cleansing and hydration only. It may not sound like a legit way of doing things, but try it.

- oil cleanse to remove makeup (I highly recommend the asian oils that emulsify with water rather than to remove oil with a washcloth)
- gentle soap (try those derm recommended/formulated types such as cerave, cetaphil, physiogel etc.)
- sheet mask, preferably in the healing or calming variety. Don't apply moisturizer because the sheet mask should be sufficient.
- Spot treat with your choice of treatment that works for you. Benzoyl Peroxide seems to work better than salicylic acid/tea tree oil/niacinamide/sulphur for me, but might be different for you.

Try this routine for a week or 2 and hopefully things calm down (an exception would be if your acne was hormonal - in this case please see a derm).

Now it's time to add other products back into the routine. It should be easier to tell which cause bumps and which don't because the face is clearer. Ingredients to look out for would be cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, coconut oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride (coconut oil derivative). I myself am sensitive to the fatty alcohols (cetyl, stearyl and cetearyl) and lanolin, which are very commonly found in creamy moisturizers/washes, even in those formulated by dematologists. Even my prescription cream had it, so no wonder I was still breaking out! >:(  This list is by no means exhaustive, but I've found that running the products through cosdna.com and seeing which ingredients brings up an acne rating is a good start to identify acne-causing ingredients.

There is no choice but to go through this trial and error experiment to identify which products and eventually which ingredients are the cause of clogged pores or acne.

r/skincareaddiction recommends patch testing, meaning to test on a small portion of the face for about a week before applying to the entire face. This way, should you break out, you'll only break out in a small portion rather than all over. Patch testing is for people with extremely good self control in my opinion, I'm of the slather it all over immediately and hope for the best variety. PATCH TEST!!!!


4. Stick with it
I am just about the most fickle and impatient person on this earth. I like things to happen IMMEDIATELY. Naturally, when the new "unicorn product" doesn't work overnight, I'm off the next day looking for the "rainbow unicorn product". Just, NO. If it's not causing more acne, stick with it, stick with it, stick with it, because if it's not causing more acne, there no longer is an irritant in your routine and the rest of the acne will slowly diminish. Then you will be faced with the problems of the aftermath of acne rather than acne. New problems, but better problems hopefully?


5. Don't overdo it
The product is working, LET'S PUT/DO MORE OF IT!!! Worst compulsion ever. This is for products with actives in it. Liquid exfoliators (AHAs and BHAs) or in other words glycolic acid, mandelic acid, lactic acid, salicylic acid, fruit enzymes. Retin-A or Tretinoin. Derma-rolling. Even physical exfoliation such as scrubs or brushes. If it works with the current frequency that you're doing it, just keep it simple and keep at it. Over doing it could cause damage to the skin barrier and result in hyper sensitive skin that reacts badly (I'm talking flaking, redness, dehydrated skin or even rashes) and who would want that right after getting rid of acne?! I learnt this the hard way. Don't be too enthusiastic.


I think that's enough of this great wall of text. I genuinely hope this advice will help someone out there, and if you do try this out do let me know how it goes!

Weekly Favourites #17

This was supposed to go up on the weekend but I've been so busy! So... what I've used most and have been loving last week were -

Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation in 143 - One of the sheerest foundations I own, but if you like your skin to look like skin or if you have perfect skin (jealous!), then you will love this on its own. This doesn't quite justify the price tag of $80 bucks for me, but when mixed with other thicker foundations (I favour the Shu Uemura Lightbulb Foundation to mix or MUFE HD Foundation), the results are darn natural yet still with an oomph of coverage.

Marc Jacobs Re(marc)able Concealer in 04 Glow - Refer to glowing review here. I've been getting so carried away in the morning just spot concealing but it's been worth it.

Hada Labo Air Aqua UV SPF50/PA+++ (fresh) - This sunscreen is HG material, babeh. Goes on like a serum, sinks in instantly, so lightweight that I can't feel it, leaves no white cast and keeps me matte all day long. This is a sunscreen like no other, beats the Biore ones hands down.

Selsun 2.5% suspension - This is a very strange item to be in favourites, but here's the backstory. I was stalking reddit/r/skincare as per my recent nighttime reading addiction, and came across some posts that talk about acne being caused by fungus rather than bacteria. The signs of the fungal acne include many small bumps around the hairline and jaw area that don't go away despite using all the traditional acne medications. The anecdotes refer to using anti-dandruff shampoo as a wash or a mask (diluted and spread as a thin layer), specifically Selsun or Head & Shoulders which have the active ingredient of Selenium Disulfide and Zinc Pyrithione respectively. I decided to hunt the Selsun down (no silicones) and give it a shot and whaddayaknow, my little bumps pretty much decreased by 50% after the first use. It also seemed to do wonders for cleaning out my sebaceous filaments (these are not blackheads as most people think!) on my nose and cheeks. I won't say the bumps have completely cleared, but they don't make me want to squeeze them out anymore! So if you are at your wits end like I was, maybe using an anti-dandruff shampoo will work for you. Also, this does tend to be drying so use with caution.

Have a good start of week everyone, and as always, let me know your favourites too!

Marc Jacobs Re(Marc)able Full Cover Concealer Review

Can we just check out this gorgeousness that is the Marc Jacobs Re(Marc)able Full Cover Concealer? Extra points for the punny name too!

This is the most lux concealer pot that I've ever laid my grubby large hands on. It's rather solid, hefty almost and is actually a good substitute as a paperweight, a beauty addict's paperweight that is. I particularly like the filleted (architectural software command that joins 2 lines perpendicular to each other with a rounded corner. hur hur) edges of the glass.

I know that the Marc Jacobs Beauty line does go quite high end, but this concealer retails for SGD$36 which is actually not too bad given that Tarte, MUFE, Nars etc. go for much higher, and even MAC concealers are SGD$30 which is not that much cheaper than the Marc Jacobs Concealer. It's probably one of the more value-for-money items in the range in my opinion ( and also because I might be concealer obsessed).

Enough of the case/tub-gasm. The product inside is unlike any concealer I've ever felt before. I highly suggest that if possible, do go down to a sephora/marc jacobs store to feel it. It's super duper creamy and silky, yet it's almost like all that silky creamy goodness got pressed at an intense pressure to form dense yet airy texture. I am so bad at describing it, so let me give it another go. It feels like an ultra dense meringe mixture before it's been baked. For those who are familiar with the Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer, it's like someone whipped that formula then pressed it into a more solid form.

It's whipped delight, that's what this is. (sidenote: this also feels and is chock full of silicones that is probably what gives it its delightful texture)

MAC Studio Fix Fluid NC30, Marc Jacobs Re(Marc)able Full Cover Concealer 04 Glow

I have the shade 04 Glow, which does well on my NC30-35 skin when used on pigmentation and scars. It's not brightening under the eye so if you're looking for an undereye concealer do go a shade lighter. 04 Glow also has peachy undertones, so it would do well if you're a NC35 and above and looking to correct dark circles. I can't use this in large portions because I'm more yellow undertone than peach, but in areas to correct the colour of pigmentation, this does wonders.

For demonstration purposes, I have used my dark eye circles as the rest of my face is being a bitch. When Marc said full cover, he was not kidding. My favourite way of using this concealer is going in with a small brush and to pinpoint conceal lisa eldridge style. It blends out seamlessly into the rest of the face while still giving any marks the coverage that you so desire. I find that using a finger really just wastes product because a finger smears the product around. Also given the relative softness of the product (as compared to other cream concealers), using fingers seem to create a dent in the tub really fast!

Texture wise, it's so creamy that I thought it would be a really hydrating concealer. I was disappointed because the texture actually exposes the rough texture and any dry patches that I have on my skin. Another reason why pinpoint concealing is the way to go. Folks with nice smooth skin/well hydrated skin would best benefit from this concealer.

Longevity is where the other portion of the name comes in - re(marc)able indeed. My combination dehydrated yet oily face went a full 9 hours with minor fading of this concealer in portions of my face that I do not touch like my cheeks. Considering that I find this concealer to be one of those do not not truly set to a finish that doesn't transfer (like the Tarte Maracuja Creaseless Concealer), it is very impressive! I wish it did set someone like the MUFE Full Cover Concealer though, would really appreciate something that doesn't transfer.

All in all, aside from the rather crappy shade range, if you're someone who has PIH and smooth skin, or are willing to put in the effort to pinpoint conceal, this would be a comparable concealer to the likes of MUFE Full Cover Concealer but with a better, softer finish. Folks with more textured skin or matured skin, if you enjoy the skin-like texture (because this concealer does reveal the skin texture through it's pigments), then this is also for you.

This is an A product for me, now if only I had smoother skin to make using this product easier. -wistful-

May 2014 Favourites

May has been a really difficult month for me in terms of skin, and that has continued into June but with some luck, it's starting to look better. Since my skin was being unusually sensitive and reacting to anything and everything, I went back to a brand that I trusted and knew my skin liked and tolerated - Hada Labo. Only their face washes don't work for me and leaves my skin feeling overly cleansed and dry but that shall be a story for another time. 

The Hada Labo Arbutin Whitening Lotion has been a staple of mine for years. It is a hyaluronic acid rich liquid that sinks right into the skin. My skin sslluurrppps it up the way a kid drinks coke (or at least the way I drank coke as a kid, massive addiction right there) and there's no sticky feeling after. I think no matter what your skin type is, the boost of hyaluronic acid hydration can't be beat. I also much prefer the Arbutin version over the normal version because it really does brighten up the complexion after extended use. This is probably like my 4th or 5th bottle, not inclusive of the bottles of normal formula Hada Labo Lotion I've used. 

I've used one of the older versions of the Hada Labo Moisturizers a long way back and it wasn't a favourite because it did leave a tacky feeling to my face. Fast forward to the very impressive sounding Hada Labo Ultra Hydrating 3-in-1 Perfect Gel which is supposed to be an essence, cream and mask all in one little tub. While I do still find the formula tacky, this performs really nicely globbed on as an overnight mask and I wake up with soothed and softer skin the next morning. It also works well in very thin layers for day time use.

The Air Aqua UV Day Emulsion SPF50 PA+++ (fresh) is such a gem of a sunscreen. It comes out as a white super liquidy formula that is almost like a serum and basically weightless once on the skin. It contains vitamin C to brighten, sebonotmine that keep the face matte and hyaluronic acid that still keeps the face hydrated (and also some anti-ageing ingredients). In my opinion it almost performs as a primer! This didn't aggravate my skin and the texture is just so beautiful. I currently have dry skin and at the end of the day I can see that my makeup has turned powdery (but still there!), so I do believe this would work well on oily skinned ladies!

I've finally pulled out my Sleek Blush by 3 Palette in Lace, a palette that looks so beautiful but was previously so hard to use because it was so incredibly pigmented. I've finally gotten my hands on a much looser blush brush and that has made an incredible difference in the way these blushes look on the cheek. A looser brush helps to diffuse the pigment and leaves such a sheer wash of colour on the cheeks which is incredibly beautiful. I use the matte colours all over the cheek and pop the centre shimmery nars orgasm-esque shade just on the apples.

Finally, my last favourite is the Tony Moly Gel Eyeliner in 02 Brown. I've been favouring an all or nothing look, so I either go with purely mascara, or a very thick cat eye. With the very intense cat eye look, a black eyeliner look is quite fierce so the brown eyeliner does a great job at softening the look. This gel eyeliner is very creamy and pigmented with all day lasting superpowers and can do no wrong. The bonus is that the built in brush is in the unretarded category and actually usable for touch ups so you can bring this little baby around!

What were your favourites this month? Here's to a better month with skin issues folks! 

What To Buy From Iherb

Sometimes online shopping is fun, and sometimes the mere thought of going through the entire (vast) selection of products is just so tiring. Iherb is a site that I've been obsessed with lately and it strikes me as one of those sites that lie in the tiring realm of online shopping so I thought I'd give you a hand. I want to talk about Iherb because I'm really very impressed by the selection, quality, pricing and speed of shipping (international shipping is USD$4!!!) - I really think that they're a great business and deserve to be shared with the world and I'm not being paid or anything.

So, first things first. Head to www.iherb.com. This is what you see.

Admittedly, the site looks somewhat shady, what with the comic sans iHerb.com logo. But have no fear, they're really reliable!

1) Start surfing - iherb's like an online supermarket + pharmacy. I've really only scoured the Bath & Beauty section, but there's plenty of food and supplements to be found.

2) Add things to cart or wishlist.

3) Check Specials to see what's on sale for the week and Trials for super good deals like 50c lipbalms. There used to be Freebies where the lipbalms come free but it seems that they've been incorporated into Trials.

3) Checkout and choose shipping! I usually choose Singpost shipping (yay Singapore!) because it's incredibly affordable at USD$4, and allows me to purchase up to 14 pounds of items. I've never gone above USD$50 for any of my... 8 previous orders (yupp! iherb addict!) so I'm not entirely sure what the tax systems are or if there are even any. It seems as though the price you see at checkout is your final cost. Also! Singpost shippings says that it takes 4-8 days to arrive but in my experience I usually get my items in 5 days which is incredibly quick considering it's literally flying across the world from North America to Singapore! I've even had my parcel delivered on a Sunday before too though I think that was a one off event. Amazing amazing service.

4) Iherb stores your credit card information, so you can click reorder or just check out a next order without re-entering credit card information again which makes it uber convenient (and potentially dangerous for impulse buyers like me).

5) Sit tight for your very well packaged parcel! All liquids are taped and ziplock bagged, glass is wrapped in meters of wrapping paper, and there's usually a weird free gift like measuring tape or stationary.

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So now that the how to's out of the way, let's move on to what I've actually bought and what's good (and not) to purchase. Not all of what I've bought is in the picture, just the bits and pieces I had within arm's length so that I don't come off as a crazy person who buys too many things.

The beauty products available on Iherb have reviews that make them sound like products God himself made and beamed to earth and that makes me kind of want everything (ha, sucker) but it would do lots of good to take the miraculous reviews with a pinch of salt.

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THE AWESOME

Organic Extra Virgin Oil is super yummy, can be a cooking oil replacement, used as butter and apparently helps to increase metabolism rates and improve memory. Can also be used as a makeup remover (comodogenic though, so not advisable), hair conditioner, body moisturizer... the list goes on. It's also really expensive in Singapore and incredibly hard to find so I really appreciate finding it at such a reasonable price on Iherb.

Bragg Organic Apple Cider Vinegar is an acquired taste. I have come to be able to just mix just this and water and drink it as a juice of sorts. It's supposed to help with heart burn or indigestion, also can be consumed in the morning to cleanse the body. I've read of people using Apple Cider Vinegar in DIY toners, even as shampoo! Make sure you get the Apple Cider Vinegar with the Mother (make sure the vinegar is cloudy) as the Mother is supposed to be the beneficial part! This can be found in Singapore supermarkets quite easily, but a bottle is easily around the SGD$10 mark.

There was a point in time I figured that my acneface was due to a poorly functioning liver. As that period of time was before my intensive thesis year, I decided to try some supplements that targeted my liver and the Now Foods Liver Detoxifier & Regenerator had the most positive reviews. I liked it enough to purchase a 2nd larger bottle, and I did feel like some of my acne cleared up, as well as increased energy levels. I wouldn't go as far to call it a miracle in a bottle, but a healthy functioning liver ensures a clean body! Milk thistle supplements like these cost a bomb in Singapore, upwards of SGD$80 for a bottle of the same size for reference.

The God of all clay masks the Queen Helen Mint Julep Masque is my ultimate favourite clay mask in terms of effectiveness vs cost. I've repurchased this time and again, and considering that Watsons sells it for SGD$10, I'm really happy to be able to purchase it for only half of that price! I love the minty smell, and also am fascinated by all the oil spots pulled out by this mask after. I'm gross that way.

Alba Botanical Papaya Enzyme Facial Mask is a very gentle, slightly tingly face mask that requires only 5 mins (say the instructions) on the face to let the papaya enzymes do their gentle exfoliating work, and then washed off to reveal brighter smoother skin. It's not a traditional clay or cream mask, rather it's an interestingly green gel that gives off the most wonderful pineapple scent. I like to leave it on longer than 5 mins, and even when left on for half an hour I saw no adverse effects. Though I can't say I saw smoother or brighter skin, I did find that it was extremely easy to extract any whiteheads/bumps after using this mask and my skin was indeed softer. Some might say that the enzyme works the same way as an AHA, but I don't find glycolic acids make extractions easier.

If you're not into face oils yet, the Mad Hippie Antioxidant Facial Oil is a good place to start. It is mainly argan oil, and is chock full of other beneficial fruit extracts. It's not too heavy an oil, and absorbs quickly leaving smooth, soft skin. I use this under makeup in the day time with no problems. A plus is that it smells of citrus heaven!

Ever heard of the wonders of Vitamin C when applied topically? If you haven't, Vitamin C brightens the skin substantially and increases collagen production in the skin. If you aren't using a vitamin C product, you should probably give it a go. However, be careful because Vitamin C breaks down very quickly when in contact with water (quickly: a week or so) and turns yellow (has oxidized). Imagine paying big bucks for a Vitamin C serum that goes bad in a week or has no control over the preservatives in the serum? Also there are close to no cheap vitamin C solutions on the market. Now Foods Vitamin C Crystals Powder allows you to DIY your own Vitamin C Serum for cents. It's literally the Vitamin C Crystals, a humectant (glycerin, hyaluronic acid) and water. And you can control the intensity of Vitamin C in it. This bottle will last you forever and ever.

Another DIY serum can be made with Doctor's Best Best MSM Powder. Apparently it does wonders for ice pick scars. I didn't want to buy a MSM cream because it would contain all kinds of fillers so I opted for the pure way. Pinch of MSM powder, drizzle water, apply to face. My one serious ice pick scar hasn't filled out, but given that it's 3 years old I didn't expect it to. What I've seen is that it's gotten shallower. I've seen even more improvement using the Hadacrie, so I have high hopes! Apparently ingesting MSM also helps with energy issues as well as softer skin - this is extremely bitter and I could not find a way to mask the bitterness so I've stopped taking it orally.

Bee Naturals Queen Bee Facial Polish is a powder that can be mixed with any face wash to form a scrub. The idea is simply genius because I have no favourite scrubs and I can just shake (the packaging is like a seasoning powder, neat) this powder into my favourite face wash for a good scrub. It smells like lavender, has a texture like baking soda so I assume that it's a micro-exfoliant. I was wowed the first time I used this, it was so gentle on my skin I assumed it wasn't doing much, then I washed it off and looked into the mirror. BAM my skin was so much brighter and even toned, I haven't seen my face so clear in eons. Highly recommend this.

I've been wanting to try the Real Techniques brush collection for a really long time. I'd been eying the collections on iherb because they're the cheapest I could find anywhere, even in London they're more expensive. So when the iherb had a 20% off all Real Techniques brushes (yes you heard me right, 20% off the cheapest retail price), I jumped at the opportunity to purchase the Real Techniques Expert Face Brush. All. Expectations. Met. Regret. Not. Buying. More. 

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THE DECENT

Source Naturals Skin Eternal Serum is a very recent buy of mine and is supposed to be anti-aging. Yupp, I've hit the 2-5 and anti-aging starts now. It apparently contains the same ingredients as a certain Dr Perricone Wrinkle Product but at a fraction of the cost. It's feels extremely nourishing and seems to plump out my one deep laugh line, but does leave my face with a shiny layer so I prefer it for night use only.

I purchased the Aura Cacia Organic Tamanu Oil when I read about Tamanu Oil as the one magical oil that will cure all my skin problems. It's supposed to help fade pigmentation and dry out acne yet moisturize the face at the same time (how that works I'll never know). What I do know is that it's a very thick GREEN GREEN GREEN oil that tints my face green. Helloooooo Wicked Witch of the West. It also stings my eyes if it accidentally seeps in. It did moisturize my face but took all night to sink into the skin and is simply impossible to use in the day if I was heading out. Also did not see much improvement in the pigmentation and acne but who knows, it might work for someone else!

Aura Cacia Harmanizing Grapeseed Oil is an oil higher in linoleic acid than oleic acid. An oil with high linoleic acid is good for acne prone skin because skin deficient in linoleic acid cause sebum to stick to the skin and hence result in clogged pores. It is also an astringent oil (yup, huh what? was my reaction as well) it might possibly dry out skin as well. I like the light texture of grapeseed oil but since I haven't done much testing the jury is still not out on this. Good oil and affordable enough to play around though. 

Heritage Products Castor Oil is also another affordable oil to play around it. Used in oil-cleansing (to mix with carrier oil for a deeper cleanse) and with a multitude of other uses such as eyelash conditioner.

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THE OKAY

Morningstar Minerals Derma Boost Rejuvenating Spray Mist has rave reviews but I never actually saw the benefits. It sure is refreshing though and strangely enough, when sprayed on aching/tense muscles from sitting too long at the computer, alleviated the tenseness.

Nubian Heritage African Black Soap Bar is supposed to be great for acneface. I don't find that this cleanses particularly well and I feel like I end up with a filmy layer on my skin after using this bar soap on my hands. What I do like however is the super intense orange (?) smell that this soap seems to be infused with. For a few months my entire bathroom was scented when I left the soap exposed. Even if you don't use this as a soap, it's great as a room scent!

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THE NUH UHS

Don't buy the Life Flo Health Retinol A 1% Advanced Revitalization Cream unless you've used retinols before. I've been dealing with extreme skin sensitivity the past month or so and though I don't physically get any reactions when I use this product, I think it damaged my skin barrier/thinned my skin such that my skin reacts to anything and everything. By react I mean a great red rash that evolves to dry flaking rash and that was not a pretty sight.

Derma E Refining Vitamin A and Glycolic Toner is highly highly scented. So much it made me stare at my cotton pad for a while before deciding to use this on my face. Not the best toner I've ever used, the glycolic acid in this didn't seem to have any effect. Then I read Paula Begoun's review on it that said that it's potentially irritating and harmful to the skin and that the glycolic acid content was too low and at the wrong PH to work so I. Binned. It. and moved on with my life.

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WANTS

I'm still on a perfect oil hunt so the exotic oils like the Sibu Beauty Sea Buckthorn Oil and Acure Organics Marula Oil have really caught my eye. On the other end of the spectrum, I'm also tempted to try the Mayumi Squalene which is supposed to mimic sebum on the skin so that the skin doesn't overproduce sebum. The Badger Company Damascus Rose with Lavender and Chamomile Antioxidant Face Oil just sounds and looks so luxurious. It is supposed to be a dupe for the Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate but I already have the Kiehl's so I'm holding off for now.

In the exfoliation department, the Alpha Hydrox AHA Souffle seems to be a favourite of many of the skincareaddiction thread redditors. The Earth Science Active Age Defence A/B Hydroxy Acid Night Rejuvenator also seems like an intriguing product that combines both AHAs and BHAs for the complete exfoliation experience.

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Ahhhhh so many wants so little cash and only one sensitive face. I hope I've managed to sieve out some of the more exciting products in the beauty department as most of the posts I've read online seem to concentrate on food stuffs.

If you are intrigued by any of the products I've posted about and are a first time customer at iherb, feel free to use my referral code JMH090 which gives you USD$5 off your first order, or USD$10 if your order is USD$40 or more. I have no idea what it does for me (probably earns me cents I guess?) but it's definitely savings for you!

Have fun shopping and I hope you enjoy it as much as I do!

Weekly Favourites #17

Hello weekend! My apologies for the lack of posts this week - I have contact dermatitis. On my face. It's the strangest thing ever because I haven't changed my face routine but have large red patches on my face ): So I haven't really had the ability to test out much because all I've been doing is slathering my face in a hydrocortisone cream.

Anyway, weird mix of favourites this week! I purchased this jewellery case/holder in bangkok. It's what can usually be found in jewellery boxes but I've just bought this to slot into my drawers. Not the most ideal for larger rings but it's visual delight in my drawer! Also it's much easier to find my rings now compared to having them all in a bowl or dish and I can also keep track on how many (too many) rings I have! I also like that half of it has no ring slots so I can dump my larger items.

The HadaCrie N810 is something I begged my boyfriend to pick up for me when he had a stopover in Japan on the way back. I've only had it a few days and boy am I addicted. It's a tool that uses sonic vibrations to help cleanse and moisturize the skin. It adds about 20 minutes to my nightly skincare routine but so worth it for blackheads/sebaceous filaments that pop out ever so easily, smaller pores and super duper moisturized (by my standards) skin. I don't have SKII skin but my skin has definitely picked up since getting this tool.

I had a super pared down routine in bangkok and I decided to bring the Estee Lauder Advanced Night Repair as a do-it-all. I don't exactly remember why I fell out of using it (probably because I moved on to form a relationship with my oils) but it's definitely regained my love. It's a no fuss serum-moisturizer-in-one that does wonders. Also, no greasy feeling and waiting for it to absorb which is a refreshing change.

The Beauty Blender is my go to for foundation application now. It's magic. I don't know how it does it, but the finish it delivers is so refined and unachievable with a brush. Same with blending in concealer. It's also so much easier to wash after each use as compared to a brush and hence way more hygienic.

So that's my little bag of favourites this week (and the last actually). Hopefully my contact dermatitis goes away before monday because I have to go to work (yay//nay working adult!) and I can do some face shots for the upcoming reviews! Wish me luck and have a good weekend!

Diorshow Extase Mascara Review

While having some quality mother-daughter bonding time in the +66, I asked my mom what mascara she used. Some background about my mom - she doesn't wear eyeliner so a quality mascara is extremely important to her. Then I remembered that she had passed me this sample of the Dior Extase Mascara to let me try because she had bought loads to hoard.

Yes, this is the only mascara my mom has settled on to use pretty much for the rest of her life and has no intention of switching loyalties. Such fantastic attitude!

The mini tube is pretty much the exact same packaging and brush (sans the dior monogram print all over the tube) as the full sized and I actually prefer small sizes because let's face it - 3 months to completely use up a mascara is pretty much mission impossible.

The brush is a large bristley type brush, just the type I like. I don't like the plastic wands (like the covergirl lashblast) because I always seem to poke my eyes with them (and it hurts) but not with the bristle type wands. If you look closely, the wand is knobbly, like beads on a bar. I'm no professional so I have no idea what the different types/shapes of wands do.

What I really appreciate about this wand is that it has teeny tiny bristles on the very tip of the wand that allow me to coat my inner eye lashes using the wand vertically. This is very useful especially if you're like me and are not able to flip the wand around and still handle it well. Also useful for very short bottom lashes.

Curled lashes | One coat | Two coats | Thee coats

On to the only thing that matters. Performance. This mascara is not waterproof, but it's very definitely smudgeproof on me. Take that oily eye area! This lasts and lasts without migrating or flaking, even better than the waterproof and insanely hard to remove japanese mascaras I've tried. And it comes off easily with a water based remover or warm water. Consider me extremely impressed.

It delivers on both length and volume, though as you can see it tends to get rather clumpy by the time I've hit the third layer. Two layers is the bomb diggity. As I have decently long but uneven and sparse lashes, I really appreciate how the Dior Extase Mascara really amps up the volume, especially on the my outer lashes.

This is also one of those formulas that are not overly wet and get all over the place because you've blinked before the formula has dried. It also goes on the lashes in a very lash-like manner. By that I mean that unlike some formulas where it coats the lash and each lash comes out looking like a stick, the Dior Extase manages to coat the lash evenly so that it tapers and still looks like lashes.

One more point that I'm pretty sure bugs only me. You know how some formulas dry on the lashes like they've been on the lash for the entire day? I don't quite know how to describe this well, but I call them old looking lashes - it's almost like the formula turned powdery and just slightly ashy or grey. I absolutely hate those. Not with the Dior Extase Mascara! This formula stays black and fresh all day long. That alone gives me heart eyes.

The only downer about this mascara is that even though I've curled my lashes, upon application of this mascara it almost straightens out my curl. I consider this very strange because the formulation is not heavy or wet at all. Just a mystery I'll never solve I guess!

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Pros:

• Not waterproof but extremely smudgeproof even on oily lids
• Lasts all day
• Looks freshly applied and black all day long
• Comes off easily with water-based makeup remover/warm water
• Big on volume and length
• Formula keeps lashes still looking like lashes (tapers out towards tip of lash)
• Has bristles on tip of brush for easier application on inner lashes/bottom lashes

Cons:

• Straightens out my curl
• Not waterproof (not for wet eyes/sad days/sad movies)
• Does clump ever so slightly (and on the third coat)

Conclusion: A all the way! 

Brought VS Actually Used

I'm back from Bangkok and well shopped out. Nope, no beauty haulin' but I thought it would be interesting to let you know what I had on my face in crazy 35 degree celsius weather. I was sorely tempted to go barefaced (since no one knows me any way and it was incredibly hot and humid) but my pride stopped me. I also thought that I had managed to pack rather lightly but who knew, I managed to use even less than I had packed. So here you go - 35 degree proof makeup. 

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What I Actually Used:

Bourjois Happy Light Base Serum Matite - I don't own any other primers and I couldn't bring my Urban Decay Sprays because I went on a budget airline and did not purchase check in luggage. This really surprised me and did indeed keep my face matte for a good 7 hours. My mom (yes, this was a mother daughter trip, sweet right?) was blotting away and I there I was with not a hint of shine. Whoop! Don't fancy the scent though. 

Hada Labo BB Whitening Cream SPF 32 PA+++ - I had forgotten just how much I love this. I stole my mom's La Roche Posay SPF50 Sunscreen, but in any case, the built in SPF 32 PA+++ is still brilliant. This BB cream's liquidy consistency is so light on the skin it's almost like a serum in my opinion. I just don't feel it at all, which is brilliant for weather where you don't want anything on your skin. 

Collection Lasting Perfection Concealer - I brought this because it's on the ends of its life and I wanted to finish it up(sad face). I'm scarface galore and this amped up the BB Cream coverage very well indeed. Definitely a repurchase somewhere in the future.

Maybelline Dream Matte Powder - I've been using this powder for years now. In fact, this is my 2nd compact and I've hit pan already. And just in case you think I alternate this with other powders, I actually don't. That's just how long it lasts. Finely milled and virtually undetectable on the face, I also attribute my 7 hour shine free face to this powder.

Too Faced Papa Don't Peach Blush - One of the longest lasting blushes and pigmented blushes I own. This peachy blush with a gold sheen is something that would suit pretty much everybody and hangs around all day. It really lifts and slims my face (oddly) and it's my default blush when I don't know what to wear.

The Face Shop Eyebrow Designing Kit - Perfect ashy colour for dark hair. I see no need to switch out.

Star Lash Gel Eyeliner - Testing this eyeliner and I'm happy to say that it's passed the test. Just be sure to apply on dry eyelids (best if powdered) because oil does cause it to transfer. It applies marvellously on the waterline/tightline and lasts all day. When I remove my makeup with an oil cleanser in the night and massage my eyes, the area turns black - that's how I know it's still there in my tightline. Amazing stuff!


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Excess That Was Brought:

The Balm Time Balm Foundation - Brought this because I thought I might want something that keeps me matte and yet still have coverage. Turns out the concealer did the job and I had no reason to use this.

Natural Collection Blush in Pink Cloud - A peachy shade is just more attractive than pink in hot weather? Also did not want a completely matte face.

Sleek Face Form in Light (highlight & contour shade) - Highlight and contour slipping around my face? No. thank. you. not. taking. that. risk.

MAC Eyeshadow in Naked Lunch - Too. hot. to. want. more. makeup. on. my. face.

MUA Undressed Eyeshadow Palette (2 shades) - Ditto.


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A minimal routine is really the most attractive in such hot and humid weather. I would not want to be worried about having my makeup slipping and sliding when I could be doing "more important" things (like shopping hoho). I think the extras would've come in useful if I had to go to a fine dining restaurant (chances were low considering I only packed slippers) or if I had gone with friends and we wanted to head out to bars/clubs. No lip products because... it's Bangkok and I'm eating pretty much all the time! Also, one more tip - the more products you can apply with a sponge/fingers, the more hygienic (you can wash your sponges/hands faster than a brush) it is!

It is a relief to be back to raining and somewhat cool Singapore - that's how hot bangkok was! What do you guys usually pack on trips? Let me know - I have another trip planned for a few months down the road so that would be really helpful!

Sponge & Dash

So here I bring you my latest base addiction. In between all the sun and storms we've been getting (all in the span of 24hrs), the humidity is just too damn high. A dewy base in high humidity is tough to maintain, and I try to steer clear of matte bases because I have a flat face, so here's the slap & dash routine that I've been favouring that falls somewhere in between. Oh yes, tool addiction - beautyblender (which I didn't photograph).

Both the Hada Labo BB Whitening Cream and the Topshop BB Cream offerings have spf and pretty darn good coverage that evens out most things. The Hada Labo BB Cream has a dewier finish, while the Topshop BB cream has more of a matte satin, but mixed together, the finish is both lightweight and incredibly skin-like as they offset each other in terms of finish. I find that the trick to getting the skin-like finish is to apply with fingers, quick and easy, no brushes involved. There's none of that sweaty looking dewiness, just a soft... if I might say... glow. 

Smear on some of the Tarte Maracuja Creaseless Concealer on your undereye darkness and press it in with the dry beauty blender and you'll find that it does indeed live up to its creaseless claims. Again, I find this concealer works best with the dry sponge because the sponge presses the concealer into the fine lines to create an even coating over any dark circles. Please, no wet sponges near this concealer because water is repelled from it and you'll just end up wiping off your base. Tried and tested. The shade I have is Light-medium which is a very good peachy shade, similar to the Bobbi Brown Corrector in Light Peach.

L-R: Canmake Glow Fleur Cheeks 04, Topshop BB Cream 3.0, Hada Labo BB Whitening Cream 02, Tarte Maracuja Creaseless Concealer Light-Medium

For some beauty and cuteness in your life (and as a welcome to spring in other parts of the world?), you need the Canmake Glow Fleur Cheeks. A brilliant palette that unlike most of the blush range of Canmake which are incredibly glittery has the softest sheen ever that brings the right amount of flush to the cheeks. I have the shade 04 which is a good balance of peach and pink that would suit most skin tones. The brush that comes with it isn't retarded and useless either. Bonus!

Top everything off with a little slice of heaven which is the Guerlain Meteorites to diffuse any shine and pores for simply perfect looking skin. For some reason though, the effect of the Guerlain Meteorites is hardly discernible to me, but when the SA in sephora tried it on me I was amazed. Any tips on how application?

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So there you have it, I can complete my face in just about 5 mins now and be out the door. Great for me because I'm always late. Just call me whirlwind val. 

Olfactory Oomph

I like to start and end my days with pleasant smells - an energetic scent in the day time for to wake me up, and a relaxing scent at night to ease into bed. I'm not one of those people who are content with an all fragrance free routine (apologies for those with skin sensitive to fragrance) and fragrances just make the entire skin routine more interesting and experiential.

I like to start my day with the Mad Hippie Antioxidant Facial Oil. This luxurious oil's first ingredient is Argan oil, and is a medium consistency oil that applies very smoothly on the skin. It does take a short moment to absorb and leaves the skin very soft and smooth. My absolute favourite bit about this oil is that it smells like oranges! And not in the tangy, sour way, but the best word to describe it would be deep. It's a deep, sweet orange scent that has just enough zest in it to be energetic and mood lifting. Definitely a great start to the day!

In the nights, I like to top off my skincare with the Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate. Let me just put it out there that I do not like the smell of lavender and the Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate's main scent lavender. I find that there's just enough scent of "others" to layer the lavender to make it pleasing to the nose. It does take some getting used to, but once you get used to the smell, it is an extremely calming experience to rub the oil into the palms and take a deep breath of it before pressing your palms to the face. To top the experience off, this oil is not the least bit oily feeling (feels like a dry oil) and you get to wake up to softer skin in the morning.

I'll be honest here, I don't use the Sukin Moisture Night Restoring Cream on my face. I use it on my body and as a hand cream because the scent is divine. If there was a perfume of this I would definitely buy it. I bought it expecting it to have the nutty scent of rosehip oil, but I was greeted by this amazing complex scent. It's definitely citrus, but it almost has a vanilla to it. I have absolutely no idea what it is that I'm smelling, just that it smells like it belongs in a high-end spa. The texture is also beautiful - a whipped cream that soaks right into the skin with no greasy leftovers.

Now I can sleep like a baby cocooned in scents. What are the products that add an olfactory oomph to your routine? Let me know!

Top 5 Concealers + 1 dud

L-R: Benefit Fake Up in Medium, MUFE Full Cover Concealer in 7, NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in Custard, MAC ProLongwear in NC30, Collection Lasting Perfection Concealer in Medium (I think), Tarte Maracuja Creaseless Concealer in Light-Medium

Hello! I have made an impromptu trip to Bangkok, so the next few posts will be scheduled posts! Since I'm someone who has plenty to conceal, and with that, plenty of concealer, I thought a round up was in order. I apologize in advance for the majority of them being high end concealers, but I do find that with concealers you get what you pay for. So since coverage is one of my top concerns, the drugstore does not really cater to that - hence the high end concealers. I might be slightly biased towards liquid type concealers due to overall ease of use and blendability.

Best All-rounder - Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer (SGD$42)
The Nars Radiant Creamy Concealer is a concealer I tend to keep for special occasions, or for adding coverage on top of already done makeup before heading out the door. This has a thicker creamy and slightly sticky consistency. It provides instant photoshopping to any dark marks on the face, even if applied on after powder, which is probably one of the highest praises I can give. Also does not disappear on an oily face (unless of course you're one that touches your face).

Best for spots/dark marks - MUFE Full Cover Concealer (SGD$52)
What can I say, the MUFE Full Cover Concealer is high coverage indeed. It's all there in the name! The consistency of this concealer is definitely on the thick, creamy side and it goes on darker than it looks on the tube. Be warned, this sets to a budge-proof finish very quickly so quick blending will be your friend. I'm pretty certain that this is water-resistant, or if not, sweat resistant.

Best for large areas - MAC ProLongwear Concealer (SGD$30)
There were points in time I was literally using the MAC ProLongwear Concealer as foundation. The texture of this is very liquidy and thin, yet it still has extremely high coverage and blends well into the skin. 2 layers gives full coverage. I think the thin texture of the concealer has something to do with this concealer looking very natural (for such a high coverage product) on the skin. I've read some reviews that the MAC Prolongwear Concealer was extremely drying on the undereye area, but I've had no such problems myself.

Best for undereye - Tarte Maracuja Creaseless Concealer (SGD$39)
The Tarte Maracuja Creaseless Conconcealer is the concealer that not only has high pigmentation to colour correct my dark circles (of course, please choose the correct undertone), but also is a concealer that creases very very minimally. It's texture is really very much a sticky cream and it doesn't completely set so it has a sheeny reflective finish. I find that this texture helps it to adhere very well to the uneven surface and into the fine lines on the undereye area so that it doesn't crease or migrate, and keep the area well hydrated.

Best drugstore - Collection Lasting Perfection Concealer
The Collection Lasting Perfection Concealer is amongst the cheapest drugstore concealers I've tried and yet boasts the highest coverage of all the drugstore concealers. It actually reminds me of the NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer in texture, however the coverage is definitely not as good. It also doesn't layer great - probably 2 layers max before it starts to look cakey. However, for the price paid, it definitely is the best.

Big Fat Dud - Benefit Fake Up
I dislike Benefit Fake Up so much I saw it as my duty to put it into this post so that you are warned. The concept itself is great, a twist up balm type concealer with a pigment centre core to give hydration and coverage at the same time. I really wanted to like this as the attraction of the ease of use was really great. The finish of Benefit Fake up is the same as the Tarte Maracuja Creaseless Concealer in that it never ever sets and has that reflective sheen, which ultimately makes it a mess. Application is a mess because the 2 parts (balm and pigment) never quite mix together evenly. Then because it doesn't set, it migrates in seconds. I've tried to use this on dark spots, undereyes, pretty much every part of the face, and each time it just seems to pool in areas of the face. The hydration part will work you think, but a big fat nope. The balm/oils in this product just sat as a disgusting layer of oiliness on my face. How about pigmentation you ask? Actually quite decent, but it migrates away from your spot anyway, so I would say - final answer, zero. Please don't waste your money on this product.

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Hope everyone's having a good weekend! And if you have any good concealer recommendations for me, I'm all ears!

Oops! I (popped a pimple) Did It Again

All through my adolescent, pubescent years, I've been told that I would some day grow out of my acne. Let me tell you, those bitches be lying. At least for the very unlucky few of us, that is. Though I seldom get a throbbing pus filled pimple nowadays, I have been trained by years and years of re-occurring acneface and itchy fingers. I have the recovery method pretty much perfected.

First step upon discovery of pimple, especially if it has no head. Not tea tree oil (I find that just dries out the area like crazy and makes my pimple look like a scab with a pimple underneath, not a pleasant sight), not benzoyl peroxide, but simply to slap a clay mask on it. My favourites are the Queen Helene Mint Julep Mask and the Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask. Leave this on for as long as you can and it will bring the pimple to a head. If you're lucky, the pimple will just disappear on its on.

When the pimple pops very satisfyingly, cleanse/disinfect area and put some salicylic acid on. My go-tos are the Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid and the Stridex Maximum Strength Pads. Important -  Don't put anything on after the salicylic acid for about 20-30min because the salicylic acid requires the correct PH to work and you don't want to change that by applying anything else. The salicylic acid is supposed to eat up the oil inside the pore and cleanse the inside of the pore.

This step is optional, but it speeds the healing process up by days. Nexcare acne patches are my superstar. Put a Nexcare patch on top of the pimple and it acts like a vacuum and absorbs all the nastynasty out. It's a little yellow translucent sticker, and when it's sucked out all the junk, the centre of it turns an opaque white colour. Strangely satisfying to see. Pimple will be clean and flat and proceed to turn into a scab in the day.

To speed up the healing process, either a healing oil like Tamanu Oil or simple Aloe Vera Gel (better if fresh from the leaf if you're lucky enough to possess a plant) applied twice daily.

Avada Kedavra Pimple. There you have it, pimple vanquishing in a single night, and ready to face the weekend. 

Mineral Oil - A Wonder Product?

Mineral Oil is a highly controversial product in the makeup industry. There are many horror stories on how it's derived from petroleum/crude oil and in other words the absolute shit for skin. The other camp believes that mineral oil does no harm to the skin, and any moisturizing product that does not contain mineral oil is inferior to one that does.

The lovely skincare god Caroline Hirons is in the first camp - read here. I am a reddit/skincareaddiction addict and the lovely people over there highly advocate mineral oil. I of course, urge you to do your own research before popping anything on your face.

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To briefly breakdown mineral oil:

1) it is an inert oil and rates 0 on the comedogenic scale. This means that mineral oil should not clog your pores or cause acne. Of course, there will be people who react badly to it despite such ratings, so as always recommended - patch test.

2) It is an occlusive oil. Occlusive oils are meant to form a protective layer over the skin, hence it is very different from other oils such as jojoba/grapeseed/passionfruit/argan etc. which are high in fatty acids that are absorbed by the skin. So yes, in this sense, the lack of fatty acids render mineral oil an oil with NO BENEFITS. It does however, act as a sealing layer. So if used over other "beneficial oils", it helps the skin to retain all da good stuff.

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Having stalked the skincareaddiction posts for a long while, it seems that the best usage of mineral oil is for the removal of makeup and oil-cleansing. These 2 concepts are highly popular in the Asian market - the base of Shu Uemura's cleansing oil is in fact, yes you got it - mineral oil! Of course, the price difference in a bottle of baby oil ($3-4) compared to that of a Shu Uemura Oil ($55 for 150ml) is phenomenal. If you don't mind having to wash the mineral oil off with a foaming wash, then pure mineral oil is actually a fantastic and cheap alternative to taking off makeup.

What prompted me to write this post though, was that I recently added mineral oil as the last step to my routine and I saw phenomenal improvement after just one night. I'm no stranger to face oils either, I've tried the Clarins Blue Lotus Face Oil, Kiehl's Midnight Recovery Concentrate, Mad Hippie Antioxidant Oil (argan oil base), Tamanu Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil and none of them came close to repairing my very damaged scaly forehead skin.

I've also tried many of the traditional moisturizers for sensitive skins such as Cerave PM Lotion, Cerave in a tub, QV Cream, Physiogel. Gel based moisturizers like the Laneige Sleeping Mask, Hada Labo Perfect Gel. Nothing could make a dent to my dehydrated forehead.

That's how I landed at my fuck it routine of using a sheet mask and sealing with a moisturizer/one of the "beneficial oils". It was improving slightly, then when I decided to add on mineral oil as the final step (after using it as a cleanser and realizing that my skin doesn't react adversely to it), BAM! Instant improvement. I've been using this routine for a week now, and everyday, I wake up to a less scaly forehead and I am pretty much worshipping baby oil right now.

So ladies, friends, don't discard baby oil immediately for being cheap and useless. It could pretty much be the best thing that happens to you. and pretty damn cheap too. 

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P.S. If you are sensitive to fragrance, try to look for baby oil without fragrance. Also, some baby oils/mineral oils contain tocopherol (vit e) which some people don't react to. Check the ingredients!