Weekly Favourites #17

This was supposed to go up on the weekend but I've been so busy! So... what I've used most and have been loving last week were -

Koh Gen Do Aqua Foundation in 143 - One of the sheerest foundations I own, but if you like your skin to look like skin or if you have perfect skin (jealous!), then you will love this on its own. This doesn't quite justify the price tag of $80 bucks for me, but when mixed with other thicker foundations (I favour the Shu Uemura Lightbulb Foundation to mix or MUFE HD Foundation), the results are darn natural yet still with an oomph of coverage.

Marc Jacobs Re(marc)able Concealer in 04 Glow - Refer to glowing review here. I've been getting so carried away in the morning just spot concealing but it's been worth it.

Hada Labo Air Aqua UV SPF50/PA+++ (fresh) - This sunscreen is HG material, babeh. Goes on like a serum, sinks in instantly, so lightweight that I can't feel it, leaves no white cast and keeps me matte all day long. This is a sunscreen like no other, beats the Biore ones hands down.

Selsun 2.5% suspension - This is a very strange item to be in favourites, but here's the backstory. I was stalking reddit/r/skincare as per my recent nighttime reading addiction, and came across some posts that talk about acne being caused by fungus rather than bacteria. The signs of the fungal acne include many small bumps around the hairline and jaw area that don't go away despite using all the traditional acne medications. The anecdotes refer to using anti-dandruff shampoo as a wash or a mask (diluted and spread as a thin layer), specifically Selsun or Head & Shoulders which have the active ingredient of Selenium Disulfide and Zinc Pyrithione respectively. I decided to hunt the Selsun down (no silicones) and give it a shot and whaddayaknow, my little bumps pretty much decreased by 50% after the first use. It also seemed to do wonders for cleaning out my sebaceous filaments (these are not blackheads as most people think!) on my nose and cheeks. I won't say the bumps have completely cleared, but they don't make me want to squeeze them out anymore! So if you are at your wits end like I was, maybe using an anti-dandruff shampoo will work for you. Also, this does tend to be drying so use with caution.

Have a good start of week everyone, and as always, let me know your favourites too!

Weekly Favourites #13

Hello friends! It's the weekend! -does a squiggly jiggle- You know those times when you think all is good and then WHAM! you walk into a glass door? Well, just when I thought my skin was being a darling and clearing up, it turned into a rebellious teenage ahlian (singaporean female gangster) and broke out in a major kind of way again. Such is life. I think it was telling me that I've strayed from my derm-prescribed routine just a teensy bit to far and to get my ass back there. So for fear of more retaliation, I've headed back to the derm's routine and my favourite product is the DRX Max-C. Yes, my derm is the very well advertised DRX clinic, and no, this is not an advertisement for them. I paid a bomb for my treatments. Back to Max-C, this vitamin C serum seems to calm my skin down, reduce the scarring and sinks in just about immediately and I use it religiously. I also find that this is the only product that my skin doesn't seem to have build up a slight resistance to. Heng ah (singaporean for phew).

The only addition to the regime is the Olay Regenerist Night Resurfacing Essence, which I have included in my September favourites. I only use this under my eyes because it really seems to be helping with the one single deep crease that I have under my eyes. Don't freak out at the 'resurfacing' name, or the thought of putting AHA's near the eye because this is a really gentle product.

Freaking out skin = coverage and breathability in my foundation. Mostly because I would hate to scar people by giving them the full blast of my scarred face. For that I've returned to a mix of the Topshop BB Cream and the MUFE HD Foundation which are a dream team. Great coverage with an extremely thin and lightweight layer and SPF. Could not ask for more.

My last weekly favourite has got to be the Osim Umist Baby Humidifier. The boy got me this for christmas last year. Question: which girl really wants a humidifier for christmas? But turns out he knew me better than I knew myself and Umist Baby (cutest name evaaaaaa~~~~) has been a constant companion (for the year) and a lifesaver for the past week. Having a humidifier in Singapore may sound like the stupidest idea ever, given that our humidity is somewhere in the 70-80% region but I do quite like (that's a lie, I Really like) to use the air-conditioning and that makes my environment really dry which in turn is really hostile to sensitive skin. The Umist Baby lasts for about 6 hours which is kinda short but good enough for me!

What are your weekly favourites? And would you like a humidifier?

L'oreal Lucent Magique Light-Infusing Foundation

On days when I want to skip putting on sunscreen, I tend to use foundations with SPF as a replacement. It's a rather bad habit because it's actually easier to use sunscreen, then concealer rather then work with a foundation. However, I'm really not one to say no to extra coverage and my recent foundation of choice has been the L'oreal Lucent Magique Light-Infusing Foundation with SPF24. I bought this as a replacement for the L'oreal True Match (which I misplaced or gave away, can't for the life of me remember) and also because I read that it was water-based. There are so many shades to choose from as with the True Match range and the shade G4 matches my NC30 skin pretty well. 

The packaging is quite sophisticated, the foundation being housed in a glass bottle with rose gold accents and a pump. Not good for travelling but nice for looking pretty on the table. There's 30ml of product, and the pump! Oh the pump, it has a nice little dent that fits the finger ever so perfectly, and it's so easy to control the amount that comes out. The nozzle area is also flat so that when you wipe it off on your hand, all the product comes off and does not collect! This is the best pump design that I've come across yet. I apologize for the rave, I'm a design student at heart. 

L-R: MAC Studio Fix NC30, L'oreal Lucent Magique in G4

The product itself is quite thin and really blendable. The shades come in 3 groups - Golden, Neutral and Rose (I think) and the golden range has really strong yellow undertones which are slightly too strong for me. My colour match might actually lie within the neutral group. 

The coverage of the L'oreal Lucent Maqiue can be considered medium-full, however I find that the best way to use this foundation is to buff a thin layer all over the face just to even out the skin tone. Using it in a thin layer makes this foundation almost undetectable. If you have smooth skin, then the foundation layers well with no cakiness. If you have fine lines, then layering is a no no as this foundation does migrate into those lines (for me it's under eye crease and laugh lines) which is also why I strongly recommend a single thin layer. That being said, I find that this foundation doesn't feel like anything on the skin! Skin also still looks like skin with this on. That's mostly why I like it quite a bit.

The finish is very glowy as the name suggest - light infusing. Unlike it's True Match counterpart where I found (to my horror) GLITTER, this light-infusing foundation does not rely on glitter for the finish. Thank God. Powder with this foundation is a necessity, because boy does this foundation transfer like a mother-. This is not particularly long wearing, I'd give it around 5-6 hours without a primer, setting spray or powder. I have oily skin and I do like this, but oil control is zilch - hence the powder. Dry skin types will really like this foundation as it doesn't dry the skin out and doesn't cling to dry patches either.

 My favourite way of using this is to pop concealer on before buffing a very thin layer of this on and sealing that with powder and a setting spray for some serious glowy goodness!


Summary:

Pros:

• Medium - full coverage
• Extremely lightweight on the skin
• Dewy finish without glitter
• Can be layered without caking
• Does not dry skin out
• Brightens up the face
• Doesn't cling to dry patches

Cons:

• Transfers Transfers Transfers!
• Doesn't last very long
• Tends to gather in fine lines 
• Layering this foundation tends to exacerbate the above problems

Conclusion: This foundation has great coverage even when used in a very thin layer, which is the ideal way to use it. If you have oily skin and need a ton of coverage, then this is not the foundation for you! L'oreal Lucent Magique gets a B+ from me - only when used the way it should be used. 

August 2013 Favourites

I can't believe it's already the end of August, it seems like it was just yesterday I took a year off from school. At any rate, TGIF people! Oh the good days. It was really hard to narrow down my August favourites because there was just so many things that I was using but wasn't absolutely loving. It's just one of those funks that I fall into... y'know, one of those I-have-nothing-to-wear-but-staring-at-wardrobe-full-of-clothes days. First world problems indeed.

What I have really been loving alongside with my clay masks are these Biore pore strips. I would use this everyday if I could. I love standing in front of my mirror and spending 5 mins just peeling the strip off ever so slowly and witnessing every single whitehead wiggle out of my nose. Just one of my disgusting obsessions. When I was younger, I would just peel the nose strip off so fast that all the plugs would just break off and remain in my nose and I would wonder why the strips didn't work. Slow and steady is the trick girls, slow and steady.

I also figured out the best combination for the Topshop BB cream in 3.0 which I mentioned here, and that is with the MUFE HD Foundation in 120. Together they give a high coverage, soft focused finish that feels like almost nothing on the skin. Also doesn't hurt that I have neither in the right shade (the SA matched the MUFE for me too...Sephora should really improve their lighting) so when mixed together it's a heavenly, creamy blend of the appropriate shade. The Topshop BB cream is slightly fragranced, almost like a grandma scent and the occasional whiff does have me wrinkling my nose. Still, price to pay for nicer looking skin.

My little sister purchased the Sleek Face Form in Light for me when she came back for the holidays and I finally realized the hype over Sleek's highlight/contour products. I'm not such a fan of the rose gold blush, since I already have similar colours and consider it a yesteryear colour, but the bronze shade really works in definition without being too orange on my nc30 skin. The highlighter really holds its own and I use it when I want a stronger highlight than the NYX mosaic highlighter. The kit is so nifty and versatile, i just wish it had a matte blush. Oh, I also used it on my other little sister who is darker than me, and the contour shade still worked! Like I said..nifty and versatile.

The Estee Lauder Double Wear ShadowCreme in Cafe Au Lait is something that I've recently opened after a good... half year? Patting myself on the back for patience. I had to open this to stop myself from purchasing the Maybelline Colour Tatto in Bad to the Bronze (addiction much?). This is a really nice bronze/taupe mixture with multicoloured micro glitter in it. It is not a dupe of Bad to the Bronze and comes off much lighter in colour. The glitter comes off more on the silver side, but for some reason, when on the lids it can look quite golden rather than bronze, especially when a darker brown is blended in. It's a nice subtle shade for all over the lid definition and catches light in all the right places. Best of all, no creasing or fading throughout the day.

Lastly, I've been wearing the Majolica Majorca Blush in OR211 quite a bit this month. In the pan it comes off a rather pale orange, but on the cheeks it transforms to a rather coral shade. The colour pay off is not super intense, which I like for daily wear. Also it's such a tiny cute pan I really can't resist it sometimes.

From L-R, MAC Studio Fix NC30, MUFE HD Foundation 120, Topshop BB Cream 3.0, Majolica Majorca Blush OR211, Sleek Face Form in Light bronzer and highligher shades, Estee Lauder Double Wear ShadowCreme 22 Cafe Au Lait

What are your August Favourites? Do recommend me some! Happy Friday everyone!

Bourjois Healthy Mix Serum Gel Foundation

The Bourjois Healthy Mix Serum is one hell of a raved foundation. I admit I was so stoked upon setting my hands upon it. I believe it was slightly more than SGD$30 for this foundation which is not cheap at all.

First things first, the foundation comes in a very nice lightweight glass bottle with a pump. Points for packaging and being sanitary. And...that is pretty much all the points I can give for this foundation.

I absolutely hate it.

First, THERE IS AN OVERWHELMING SMELL. My god. I'm okay with fragrance, but this, this is way over the top. It is actually quite a nice fruity, floral fragrance, but because there's just so much of it, it veers towards grandma's makeup's scent in a bad way. 

Singapore only seems to stock 4 colours, from 51 through 54. All of them seem like a nice neutral colour that would suit all skin tones. No. 53 suits my nc30 skin very well though it might seem a little too fair at first. My guess is partially because it's has next to no coverage. This would probably be a good foundation for those with already perfect skin who just want to even out skin tone, but for people like me who have plenty to cover, this is not for us.

Upon application, the healthy mix gel goes on very very smoothly, it almost feels like the MUFE HD foundation in terms of application. But that's about where the comparison ends. For me, this foundation sits on top of my face and never truly sets. It emphasizes any dry skin that I think I have properly moisturized. It doesn't do much for large pores either though I wouldn't say it emphasized them. It just didn't do anything. Also, at first, it seem like it does a decent job with lines, but by the time I'm done with my make up, the layer of healthy mix gel has creased at all my laugh lines! Major aggravated hate!!!!

When I apply more of the foundation, all it does is sink into lines faster and cakes up. If i scrunch my face while doing my make up, all the scrunch lines appear in the make up. It's just terrible, I really don't understand why it refuses to sink into my skin.

I've tried every way I can think of to put this foundation on. With a brush, a sponge, my fingers. Setting it doesn't seem to help either. I am never satisfied enough with this foundation to even wear it out of the house. Thus I can't say how long this foundation will last, though my opinion is, not long at all.

On the flip side, I guess the point of this foundation is to have it look like you're not wearing foundation at all. That is indeed true. The finish of this foundation looks like bare, well moisturized skin.

I'm not one with perfect skin, so this fails me on all counts, especially on coverage. I'm so disappointed that I feel almost cheated by all the rave reviews. But never give up hope! I will still be trying to find ways to use this, and the day that I have perfect skin, will be the day I'll use this. (cross fingers)


Summary:

Pros:

• great packaging
• finish looks like real skin

Cons:

• sits on top of my skin
• never sets
• has no coverage
• emphasizes dry skin that was previously moisturized
• doesn't not do anything for pores
• creases almost immediately

Shiseido Aqualabel White Liquid Foundation

I bought the Shiseido Aqualabel White Liquid Foundation spf23/pa++ on a whim. I could not find many reviews online at that time, but was desperately in need of a cheap foundation that hopefully would not affect my skin. So since Aqualabel is not only under the label of Shiseido, but also a skincare directed line more than cosmetic, I decided to just go for it. Also, it was on sale (haha), so I not only got the liquid version, I got the powder version as well. But today, I will be reviewing the liquid foundation. 

The first thing that will hit you upon seeing this tube is how very very small it looks. It is tiny!! For S$25.90 (if I'm not wrong), you get 25g of product. Shu Uemura has 27g, and the standard Mac is about 28g. So do not be deceived by its size, you are actually getting a really decent amount of product in minimal packaging. + points for being small so I can fit it into small bags without worrying how much space it's taking up.

As you can see it's a squeeze tube. And not one of those fake squeeze tubes that are actually hard. I really like it as it's easy to control how much product I dispense, and sanitary to boot. The product is more creamy than liquid, so it doesn't leak into the cover.

credits: http://karlasugar.net/2009/07/mac-studio-sculpt-foundation/

The labeling system for this foundation is as such:
BO - beige
PO - pink based
OC - ochre/yellow based
00,10,20,30 etc - the higher the number the darker the shade

I use OC20 though I think OC30 might be more suitable. The above swatch is with Mac Studio Fix Fluid NC30 on the left, and Aqualabel OC20 on the right. On my arm, the Aqualabel looks drastically lighter than the studio fix. But once blended out on the skin, it actually suits my skin tone. Though truth be told, I'm quite a bit fairer than I used to be, especially on my face (My arms are a lot darker than my face T_T). I'm in between NC25-NC30 now. So for people who are true NC25s, OC20 would be an excellent match.

The OC range looks very neutral beside the Mac, so I'm guessing it would suit pretty much most Asian skin tones whether they lean pink or yellow. I've read reviews that said that the PO range is very pink, so probably only Caucasians should get that.

The consistency of the foundation is more similar to those of the thicker korean BB creams, which I like. It blends easily and doesn't emphasize dry patches. This tends to dry quite fast, making it harder to blend, so work with one part of the face at a time.

As can be seen in the picture above, coverage is well above average. I only used the foundation in the pictures, no concealer, so you can see the strength of the coverage (Picture on right has additional mascara). It is not as good as the Shu Uemura Foundation I blogged about here, but pretty decent. I would say it's medium and buildable, too many layers might get cakey though. My favourite way to apply this is with my fingers or with a damp flat top brush.

It has decent spf of 23 which means that if you don't go out much during office hours you probably don't need a separate sunscreen. Dries to a nice matte finish, but it's not super matte. In fact it's quite natural looking, and once the oils of the face settle in, it really looks nice and slightly dewy. Don't see the need to powder. It doesn't feel like I'm wearing make up either.

Doesn't oxidize and lasts about 10 hours on me. Oil control is also quite good, given that I don't have to blot my face. Also hasn't broken me out which is a plus!

I can't say whether it has the same whitening properties as its skincare line, but I don't see new pigmentation spots forming, and I can't attribute any fading to this too as I use other products at night. However, why not have the extra protection all through the day right? Won't hurt.

I think this is a very versatile foundation even for people with problematic skin. People with good skin looking for a natural finish would like this too. I would've raved about this foundation when I first got it, but the excitement has worn off now, so thumbs up it is.


Summary:

Pros:

• Asian line, formulated for Asian skin tones, hence availability of yellow based foundations
• Creamy and easy to blend
• Medium coverage
• Doesn't oxidise
• Has spf
• Matte finish but still natural looking
• Lasts all day
• Good oil control
• Doesn't break me out
• Good and compact packaging

Cons:

• Dries quite fast
• Coverage not full for problem skin
• Only 4 shades (i think)

Base Routine

FOTD? I was experimenting with a new way to achieve a lighter base routine but still achieve the maximum coverage. Today I stumbled upon this application which though quite time consuming, I like the way it looks and feels.

I will be posting up images from the web as I'm too lazy to take my own.

Prep:

Hada Labo Lotion

Works as a toner, also quite moisturizing and light. For me it's not moisturizing enough, that's why I top it off with another moisturizer.

Garnier Whiten & Even Moisturizing Cream spf 17/pa++

Gives an instant brightening effect, especially for paler girls. For me it makes my face quite white. However I think that this moisturizer does work quite well for scars and pigmentation, that's why I use it.

Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Mousse Water Base spf 50+/pa+++ (need so many + a not...)

Sunblock. My mom always told me to use sunblock. I never listened. Now I have pigmentation and am very sad. Love this sunblock. Absolutely love the texture. Super light!

Olivia by CCS eco Eye Cream with Organic Olive Oil (bought in Sweden)

Bought this in Sweden because I had no eye cream and I was developing wrinkles under my eyes. This was the cheapest at their drug store because they have 25% (yeah you read that right) tax on all skincare. Quite a light and nice eye cream, doesn't do much for the wrinkles but decent for day time use. Use a light eye cream and not a heavy one because eye creams are what causes your concealer to move and mascara/eyeliner to smudge.

Base:

Skin79 Super+ Beblesh Balm

1. Use Skin79 BB Cream as a base/primer. I use this to cover up my pores to give a smoother surface to work on. It also provides decent coverage for areas that are red.

Kevyn Aucoin Sensual Skin Enhancer

2. This is a product that can be used as a foundation, however, I haven't had it long enough to find out how to work with it as it is AMAZINGLY pigmented. It is also slightly darker than my skin tone (matches my neck but my natural face is alot lighter than my neck so I cannot stand it being so dark), and since it's so pigmented it looks unnatural. In any case, this has no silicones or fillers so when on the skin it looks like skin. I use this to conceal any blemishes or pigmentation. If you do not own this, use a concealer that is slightly darker than your skin tone to conceal, then blend the edges out very well.

Kate Covering Concealer for Under Eyes

3. Use a peach concealer for under eye rings. Kate Covering Concealer is not bad, doesn't really crease for me. Squeeze some onto hand and slowly use a finger to dab it under the eyes. Work in thin layers so that it won't crease rather than putting on a lot at once and blending out. Can also be used to brighten up the area under eye/eyebags for a Kim Kardashian look.

Ginvera Green Tea Nude Cover BB Cream

4. Face should look slightly odd now, with patches of dark concealer and peach concealer. No fear, use Ginvera Green Tea BB Cream and dab over the dark spots, blending it into the rest of the face. Also put some on top of (if necessary) or around the peach areas and blend. 

Rest of face:

e.l.f All Over Colour Stick in Spotlight

I use this as a highlighter for my nose. Cream products generally work well with a cream base. Do not ever use this on powder base, will cause powder to ball up/shift.

NYX Rouge Cream Blush in Natural

Mentioned in review below.

L'oreal Super Liner 

Got this as a free gift and it works quite well. I use this to line my eyelid. Using another lighter pencil in black, lightly line the waterline. Not too intense. Then using an angled brush/flat brush, get a brown eyeshadow (or just use eyebrow pencil haha) to fill in the little corner space under the outer corner of the eye. This will really elongate the eye. Will do a proper tutorial soon.

Finish off with a lipbalm/lip colour if you like. I use the EOS lipbalm, very minty. I practically eat it. 

This base procedure does take quite long if you have many spots/scars like me because it's based on concealing mostly the spots and keeping the rest of the face relatively free of products. I really like it because I don't get the unnatural look that comes with using heavy coverage foundations. I also prefer this over powders because for some reason, I always picture powder particles army crawling their way into my big pores and refusing to get out. If you haven't already realized, the above routine is ALL cream/liquidy products. I hope this helps someone who needs as much coverage as I do and still wants to look normal, but if not, hope it helps anyway!

Oh, DO NOT take any pictures with this routine on. YOU WILL HAVE A WHITE FACE. There are 4 products in this routine that have spf. One of them being spf 50 with many + signs. Yes I am that paranoid. Okay no I'm not, it just so happens. 

If I am not clear enough, here are the tutorials that I have adapted my own routine from. I really like the 2nd girl!

Enjoy!

shu uemura face architect illuminating moisture fluid foundation 564

I've finally found foundation swatches (sorry friends I couldn't use your arms for comparison purposes because of lighting reasons) so I can finally do a foundation review! 

This foundation wins longest foundation name ever. It is the Shu Uemura Face Architect Illuminating Moisture Fluid Foundation. This is my first ever "expensive" foundation, having used drugstore foundations like l'oreal and revlon before this. I really like this foundation, and this is my 2nd bottle. I originally wanted to get the Shu Uemura Face Architect Smoothing Fluid Foundation (also long name T_T) because I had read all the rave reviews, but the SA convinced me that this would be better. According to her, the Moisture Fluid Foundation was more moisturizing and offered better coverage than the Smoothing Fluid Foundation. Hence it was better for my dry skin (caused by accutane) and scarring. Upon trying both out at the counter, the Moisture Fluid Foundation felt thicker and creamier than the Smoothing Fluid. 

Retails for SGD73 or 75 at Takashimaya. Slightly cheaper on ebay.

The 2 foundations look exactly alike and come in a nice glass bottle with a plastic screw-on pump. Glass seems quite sturdy and resistant to travel. It is very easy to control, ie. half pumps can be made. The transparent bottle also makes it easy to see how much product is left. It's sanitary and leaves very little mess, product does tend to gather on the nozzle though (as seen in picture)if not cleaned. 

I use shade 564 medium sand. The numbering system is disgustingly brilliant, as most japanese products are. The first digit represents how cool, neutral or warm your skin is. 1 = coolest, 5 = neutral, 9 = yellowest. 2nd digit represents how light or dark the foundation is, 0 = lightest, 9 = darkest. 3rd digit represents what undertone the foundation is, ranging from blue to violet. But erm, that's quite beyond me. 

credits: http://karlasugar.net/2009/07/mac-studio-sculpt-foundation/

Here's a swatch in comparison with some MAC studio sculpt foundation swatches that I found. I have tweaked the original swatches slightly to match the lighting of my own photo. Both were taken under normal sunlight. Mac foundations tend to be yellower than I am, as seen. The Moisture Fluid Foundation seems to be in between a NC30-35, and actually lighter than my original skin tone. However, I find that this brightens up my face quite a bit and I love the effect. 

Texture is a creamy liquid that is easy to blend into the skin. My favourite way of applying is to buff it in with a elf powder brush sprayed with a fixing spray. The foundation doesn't seem to sheer out when wet which is amazing. 2nd favourite way would be with my fingers.

 Original face vs foundation face. I do not know why my face looks slimmer after foundation, it's all in the angles. Also, pardon the shitty hair, I had my fringe cut a little too short. Okay, there is nothing on my face except the foundation. No concealer was used in these shots so that the power of coverage of this foundation can be seen. Awesome, no?

The foundation dries to a dewy, quite natural finish which worked really well for my dry skin. I didn't even set with powder. Until i weaned off my medication did I begin to look oilier through the day. But really, no harm done, just set with powder and it lasts just fine. Foundation lasts a full day for me with no blotting, at least 8 hours, but it does not look as fresh of course. Also because I don't set my foundation with powder, it does transfer if I happen to accidentally press my face on a shirt.

It does look quite natural on, as with all the makeup I've tried, it still looks like make up. Granted, it's not very cakey, but it does not look like skin skin. It also clings to dry skin flakes (like you can see on my nose), so exfoliate, moisturize and prime skin (optional) before using.

All in all, top foundation for easy and natural usage!


Summary:

Pros:

• medium to full coverage
• buildable coverage without getting too cakey
• moisturizing and does not dry skin out
• dewy finish
• easy to apply
• natural looking
• lasts decently long
• many many many shades to perfectly match skin especially asian skin!

Cons:

• oil control lacking (granted, this is meant for dry skin)
• accentuates dry skin flakes
• does transfer